Minnie Bell’s Soul Movement is a welcome story of success in a region where the black population continues to rapidly decrease and soul food operations are scrambling to stay alive. Hours: Dinner Wed.-Fri., brunch Sat.-Sun.
What to Order: Ensalada talong (eggplant salad $10), house Spam silog ($15), lumpia ($10), adobo fried rice ($15), pork adobo ($16).
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Pro tip: FOB’s habanero vinegar goes with everything on the food menu, so use it liberally. It’s also the kind of place where the servers are so personable that you don’t even notice that they’re upselling you. Pretty enough for the vibe-focused crowd while accessible enough for elder Filipino immigrants, the restaurant embodies the mentality of its chef and owner, Janice Dulce. Lit up like an aquarium at night, the leaf-shaped turquoise tiles behind and under the bar evoke the seas - a romantic nod to cross-continental migration and the oceanic aspects of the Philippine archipelago. The menu of from-scratch Filipino homestyle cooking, from belly-filling silog rice plates to fried chicken skins, is a fresh take on the cuisine, especially when taken alongside its robust cocktail program, which marries Filipino flavors like red bean and calamansi with diverse liquors. Luckily for us, FOB Kitchen weaves all of that memory and angst into a powerfully resonant restaurant. Guides: Oakland New Bar Stars Vegetarian-FriendlyįOB Kitchen is a new data point in the current wave of restaurants opened by third culture kids - people raised in countries different than their parents were. What to Order: Go for the tasting menu ($175) with the phenomenal - and sometimes shocking - beverage pairings ($100), for sure, but starting with one of the savory-adjacent cocktails ($13) would be a smart move. Pro tip: You can get that incredible egg dish for a mere $13 at CDP, Commis’ newish cocktail bar expansion next door. That courage makes for an invigorating dining experience. This is the kind of kitchen that commits to carrot tartare with young coconut shaved ice and dares to make a dessert that evokes celery-flavored soda. The menu here features some standbys - like a crackly little round of levain bread with chicken-skin butter and chef James Syhabout’s notorious, Brie-like poached egg yolk in onion soubise - but stay on the lookout for some brave departures as well. The dining room is sleek, and the timing of the courses is as steady as a drum, yet any potential harshness is mitigated by well-tuned service. As the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the East Bay, Commis holds it down like a metal guitarist playing a solo, marrying convention-breaking combinations with laser-like precision.
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